We love crisps in the UK – in fact, we got through about 162,900 tons in the 52 weeks ending March 2021, which is a lot of lockdown crunching. Crisps make a great snack, of course (I’m a ready-salted guy, incidentally), but they’re also a wonderfully useful ingredient to build into your cooking. Texture-wise, they’re a fast track to crunch, while flavour-wise they’re a fast track to dialling up the seasoning. Satisfaction-wise, that combination is very hard to resist.
Potato and jerusalem artichoke crisps with chipotle and coriander salt (pictured top)
Why make your own crisps when there is already such a huge range to choose from in the shops? Well, they’re fun, for one, and you can also tailor-make both the vehicle (potatoes, beetroot, jerusalem artichoke) and the flavourings (whatever spices you have around), to suit your mood. Oh, and the results are irresistibly moreish.
Prep 25 min
Soak 1 hr
Cook 40 min
Serves 4 as a snack
For the crisps
250g red potatoes, skin on
3 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 lemon, halved
250g jerusalem artichokes, skin on
1 litre sunflower oil
Soured cream, to serve
For the salt
10g chipotle chilli flakes
2 tbsp coriander seeds, lightly toasted
1½ tsp flaked sea salt
Fill a large bowl with cold water, then one by one cut the potatoes into 3mm-thick slices, ideally with a mandoline. Put each sliced potatoin the the water bowl straight away, before cutting the next.
Once all the potatoes are sliced and in the bowl, drain them in a colander and wash under the cold tap until the water runs clear. Return the potatoes to the bowl, cover with 700ml fresh cold water, add the vinegar and set aside for an hour (and up to two hours), while you get on with the rest of the dish.
Fill a second large bowl with cold water and squeeze in the juice from the lemon halves. Cut the artichokes lengthways into 3mm-thick slices, again ideally using a mandoline, then wash them of any debris and drop into the bowl of acidulated water (the lemon juice stops the slices from turning brown, though, unlike the potatoes, they do not need to be left to soak in the water).
To make the salt, put the chipotle chilli flakes, coriander seeds and flaked sea salt in the small bowl of a food processor or spice grinder, blitz until the salt is very fine and flecked with the chilli, then tip into a small bowl.
Drain the artichokes, then pat the slices between sheets of kitchen towel to get them as dry as possible.
Have ready an oven tray lined with more kitchen towel, ready to drain the crisps on once they’ve been fried. Put the oil in a medium saucepan on a medium-high heat, until it hits 170C (if you don’t have a temperature probe or thermometer, test by dropping in one slice of artichoke: it should sink to the bottom before bubbling back up to the surface within 10 seconds). Fry the artichoke slices in three batches for five minutes a batch, until lightly golden and starting to curl, and don’t worry if any of the crisps still have white patches on them, because they’ll crisp up as they cool down. Transfer to the lined tray and, while they’re still hot, sprinkle generously with the salt; repeat with the remaining artichoke slices.
Now for the potato crisps. Drain the sliced potato, then pat between kitchen towels so they’re as dry as possible. This will help ensure crisper crisps. Fry the potato slices in three batches at the same temperature and for the same length of time as the artichoke crisps. Transfer to the lined draining tray and again, while they’re still hot, sprinkle generously with the salt and leave to cool and crisp up further; repeat with the remaining potato slices.
Serve the crisps in a large bowl with the soured cream in a small bowl alongside, for dipping. If you’re not serving them straight away, once cooled, store the crisps in an airtight container for up to three days.
Roast aubergine with herb salsa and artichoke crisps
The same artichoke crisps from the previous recipe add a fantastic textural contrast to roast aubergine: crunchy (crisps) meets soft and melting (aubergines). The aubergines and salsa will both sit well for a few hours, ready to be assembled when needed. Omit the urfa if you use the chipotle salt from the first recipe.
Prep 20 min
Cook 25 min
Serves 4 as a side
900g aubergines (ie, about 3 or 4), cut widthways into 2cm-thick slices
120ml olive oil
Salt and black pepper
30g artichoke crisps (see previous recipe; or shop-bought crispy shallots)
¾ tsp urfa chilli flakes (optional)
For the salsa
20g parsley leaves, finely chopped
20g chives, finely chopped
1 large red chilli, finely chopped (pith and seeds removed and discarded if you prefer less heat)
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
1 lemon, zested, to get 1 tsp, and juiced, to get 2 tsp
Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/475F/gas 9. Put the aubergine slices on one (or two) large oven tray(s) lined with greaseproof paper, add three tablespoons of the oil, three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, and toss to coat. Arrange the aubergine slices in a single layer, then roast for 25-30 minutes, rotating the tray once halfway, until deeply golden. Remove and leave until the aubergine slices are cool enough to handle.
Meanwhile, mix all the salsa ingredients in a medium bowl with the remaining 75ml oil and a half-teaspoon of salt.
Arrange the roast aubergine slices on a large platter, so they are slightly overlapping, then drizzle over the salsa and top with half the artichoke crisps (or onions). Sprinkle over the urfa chilli flakes, if using, and serve warm or cold, with the remaining crisps on the side.
Gruyere and rosemary gratin with crisp topping
Use shop-bought crisps for this, as we do, or make the potato crisps from today’s first recipe.
Prep 25 min
Cook 1 hr 30 min
Serves 6 as a side
400ml double cream
200ml whole milk
50g unsalted butter, plus 15g extra for greasing
2 banana shallots, peeled and thinly sliced (100g)
10g rosemary, leaves picked and finely chopped (6g)
7 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
¾ tbsp black mustard seeds
Salt and black pepper
800g king edward potatoes, peeled and cut into 1mm-thick slices (on a mandoline, ideally)
150g salt-and-vinegar crisps (store-bought)
100g gruyere, finely grated
10g chives, chopped finely
Heat the oven to 190C (170C fan)/375F/gas 5. Put the first seven ingredients in a medium saucepan with a teaspoon and a half of salt and half a teaspoon of cracked black pepper. Put on a medium heat, bring to a simmer and cook gently for 15 minutes, until the shallots and garlic have softened. Keep on a low heat while you get on with the potatoes.
Grease a 24cm x 14cm rectangular baking dish with the extra butter and arrange a slightly overlapping single layer of sliced potato on top. Ladle over some of the warm cream mixture, then repeat the layers until the potatoes and cream mix are all used up. Cover tightly with foil and bake for an hour and a quarter, until the potatoes are tender.
While the potatoes are baking, put the crisps in a medium bowl and crush them roughly. Add half the grated gruyere and a good grind of black pepper, mix to combine and set aside.
Once the gratin’s time is up, lift off the foil and turn up the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Sprinkle the remaining 50g gruyere on top of the gratin, then scatter over the crisp and cheese mixture and return to the oven, uncovered, for another 15 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling and golden. Remove from the oven, leave to settle for 15 minutes, then sprinkle over the chives and serve warm.
